Go to e-bay, type "Krag" in "search" and you'll be surprised what comes up. So, the way my mind works, it's much easier to just replace the part. It is also possible that it may have been soldered in place. It is possible that the application of heat to the safety wing might aid in removal and replacement. I would have some apprehension about the safety's shaft remaining tight in the safety's wing after being removed and then replaced because of the hole being enlarged in the removal/replacement operation.
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What will the end result be? I'm not sure, because I've never done one. So look at it carefully and put it back the same way. Then, if your thought processes work like mine, you will say, "Well, I could pound the shaft out and remove the plunger, spring, old oil crud that might be restricting the spring's ability to compress, or replace the spring if necessary, and reverse reassemble." If you do that you'll have to get the shaft back in exactly right because you'll note that the end that enters the sleeve is cut a certain way so as to mate with an internal groove in the top interior of the bolt sleeve when turned one way, to either allow or prevent movement of the cocking knob and firing pin extension. This is sometimes difficult to see because the part was polished and the exterior of the joint obscured, but maybe holding it to the light and rolling it back and forth a bit will let you spot it, or you could even get some fine W&D paper and sand it a bit to see it. Well, at least you don't have to search for it under your bench or across the room.Ĭloser inspection will reveal that the shaft is driven into and through the rounded bottom of the safety.
![springfield 1898 parts springfield 1898 parts](https://c8.alamy.com/comp/PB9C82/1786-us-model-1898-springfield-krag-jorgensen-rifle-and-bayonet-PB9C82.jpg)
When you get it out you will find that the plunger is held captive by the safety's shaft. If you've got a scribe pushed in there tightly you can actually facilitate matters by tapping the safety wing toward the rear with a little non-marring hammer. Now the surprise, the safety will come off to the rear over the back ridge of the groove. Work the sharp point in between the plunger and the bottom of the groove, wiggle and push until the plunger is depressed into it's hole. Position the safety wing in the vertical position between the two dimples that receive the plunger when it is completely on or off safe. When you do that, take the bolt apart and take the safety out of the sleeve it is best done much like Ed described it. PB- sorry about being slow to get back to you, but today was dentist visit day. In your work with these guns, have you ever removed the safety lever from the bolt sleeve? If so, would you care to post instructions for doing so? I believe I can clear up the problem if I can get at the ball and what I believe must be a spring behind it. After trying to work various solvents and lubricants in behind the ball, the lever has started to become somewhat easier to turn, but is still hard to move and much stiffer than on my other Krag.ĭG, I have noticed on this forum you are quite the Krag aficionado. Possibly that spring is either broken, corroded or clogged with dirt, gunk, etc.
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My best guess is the ball is pushed into the groove by a spring behind it, housed in a tiny hole in the safety lever. The safety lever appears to be held into the rear of what Numerich calls the "bolt sleeve" by a ball that rides in a circular groove in the sleeve. Even when separated from the other bolt components, the safety lever is still difficult to turn. Therein did I discover what I believe is the problem. Mk42, I disassembled the bolt into its basic components and cleaned per your suggestion. Relics, I tried your suggestion of pulling back on the cocking piece and turning the safety lever - no go.ĭG, I don't believe this is a "parts baby," and it does not appear that anyone filed, honed or otherwise altered the parts you describe.